Fez To Fez

A PERFECT DAY

A perfect day spent in Essaouira with our friend Jonathan. We have been enjoying the wonderful hospitality of Bruno and his staff at the Villa Gonatouki. After breakfast we drove into town and picked up Jonathan and headed for the fish market, the location of which had managed to elude us on the previous day.  Next to the fish market is the spice market; it was there that we were shown some of the delights of Moroccan spices, essences, and scents. Ambre, sandalwood, jasmine, and citrus effused the air. Ismail prepared us a Royal Tea consisting of several specific herbs including saffron, star anise, rose petals, cinnamon bark, and cardamon pods.

Later we made our way toward the city ramparts. On the way we passed some unique artisanal shops many of which had workshops in the back where some of the goods were manufactured. We visited shops of wooden boxes, antiques, the local swirly art style of Essaouira, rock shops, Berber artifacts. There was even a man who knitted hats right there on the street; couldn’t help ourselves – Cindy and I had to get one each.

From the turreted heights there was a longitudinal view of the ocean walls fortified by cannons. At  the top of the wall the full force of the wind was overwhelming sweeping unhindered off the Atlantic ocean heaving waves crashing high onto the rocks. We could barely brace ourselves against the gusts. It was at that moment that a local woman in burka and sunglasses approached us and in perfect English remarked, “This is just a pleasant breeze in Essaouira."

View along the ramparts

In the Mellah

Bruno, Host at Villa Gonatouki, Essaouira

We also wanted to explore the Mellah or Jewish district, which has spent a long time in disuse since

the emigration of Jews to newly independent Israel in mid- 20^th century.

We returned to Villa Gonatouki for a magnificent meal and wonderful conversation. We were joined by our host Bruno who spent time with us talking about his life and filling us with a sense of optimism and appreciation.