Fez To Fez

THE WINDING ROAD TO THE GORGEOUS GORGE

We opted for an early start the next morning as we retrieved our car and headed out of Marrakech. Somehow we managed to find our third or fourth choice for an exit from the city and were smoothly on the road to Dades Gorge. This road winds its way high over the Tizi n’Tichka Pass through the High Atlas Mountains meandering, twisting, and curling through sharp hair pins without barriers, looking down over a thousand feet of cliffside. Each bend offers the opportunity for a new enticing view over ever changing terrain; also, the likelihood of an oncoming truck driving down the middle lane and forcing you onto the very edge of your life. I found this to be a fantastic and exciting driving experience. I also give a lot of credit to Cindy as the role of passenger is probably a lot scarier as you have time to look down at the abyss awaiting you after one wrong move. Locals will suddenly advance from the side of the road to sell you mushrooms, herbs, jewelry, fossils or meteorite shrapnel.

 We took a side road before Ouarzazate to view the ancient and remarkably picturesque Ait Benhaddou a ksar, or fortified city built into a hillside in the foothills of the Atlas. This town is a UNESCO World Heritage site and has been used as a period set in many Hollywood movies including: The Last Temptation of Christ, Gladiator, The Jewel of The Nile, Babel, and my own personal favorite, The Man Who Would Be King.

Ait Benhaddou

From there we followed the road along the Dades Valley through the Kasbah-rich towns of Skoura and El-Kelaa M’Gouna to Boumaine Dades and the start of the road leading up to the Dades Gorge. 

In the Dades Gorge

About 25 kms along this route we came to our destination for the night at what appeared from outside to be an unassuming auberge named Chez Pierre. Once inside, we were impressed by the warm welcome, the quality of the family built structure, the thoughtful design features, and the luxury of our room. All of this was however put to shame by the magnificence of the gourmet French multi-course dinner that was included in the stay.