Fez To Fez

NORTHWARD TO CHEFCHAOUEN

My memories of Fez from forty-odd years ago somehow did not live up to my present day experience. I recall everyday people in the streets, tiled surprises around every corner, empty palaces that I could wander around, the color and smells are still vivid. Streets that had baffled in their exciting and unexpected twists and turns now just caused confusion and claustrophobia. Even the tanneries – so rich in visual and olfactory memories failed to stimulate my wizened senses this time. It was lovely to return to our peaceful riad each time to relax after fighting the hoards of tourist groups clamoring to photograph a fountain or blocking the view at the gateway of a mosque.

Upon leaving our riad we requested a wheeled cart or “little chariot” that is filled with our luggage and pulled by a local youth to our car. On this occasion as we exited the main door of our riad we were greeted by a donkey. Our bags were roped on top and off we went.

We drove out of Fez with the usual “Don’t worry it is easy” directions towards Chefchaouen. Of course we got miserably lost leaving the city and surreptitiously the road that led us East to Meknes then led us to the delightful holy city of Moulay Idriss, which we would otherwise have missed. 

Moulay Idriss

Also we came across a rural area market which afforded us the opportunity to sample local delights and the friendly hospitality of those who are perhaps less jaded by city life. When purchasing a loaf of delicious bread for two dhirams (25cents), I accidently gave the seller three dhirams and he was quick to return the extra coin.

And, as usual, a three hour journey took seven hours as wound our way up into the foothills of the Rif Mountains rising through steep inclines to Chefchaouen, the blue city of Morocco. Chefchaouen medina is much quieter and more relaxed than the bigger cities that we had so far visited. We are able to wander through the small blue painted streets without being hassled and cajoled into every shop that we pass.

Chefchauoen